Pinewood
Car
Registration at
Registration starts at
1.
Once cars have been registered, weighed, and certified, they will
remain in the hands of race committee until the end of the competition.
2.
Scouts will lubricate the cars
at the time of registration.
3.
Because of possible damage to
the cars and track, there will be no running, pushing, yelling, etc. Violators
will be disqualified.
4.
Each heat will be announced.
5.
Scouts and all other spectators
must remain out of the race area.
6.
The starter will make sure the
cars are on the track properly and then will start the race.
7.
Results will be recorded at
the finish line.
8.
If a car leaves the track, runs
out of its lane, interferes with another car, loses
an axle, etc., the heat will be rerun. If the same car gets into trouble on
the second run, the contestant is disqualified and automatically loses that
race. If, on the second run, another car is interfered with, the heat will
be run a third time, but without the disqualified car.
Cars
constructed for previous Pinewood Derbies are not eligible to compete.
Pinewood Derby Car Specifications
All racers, regardless of division, must
comply with the following racing specifications which are excerpted from the
official Grand Prix Pinewood Derby Kit Instructions:
1. Width: Overall width shall not
exceed 2-3/4".
2. Length: Overall length shall
not exceed 7".
3. Weight: Finished car can not
weigh more than 5 ounces. The weight shown on the Official Race Scale is final.
All car parts and materials must be firmly attached. To increase the car's
weight, add wood or metal only.
4. Wheels & Axles: Use only
Official Scout Grand Prix wheels and axles. (Nail type axles only no full
axles permitted. If you purchased your
kit from Michaels you must replace the axles.
Axle kits are available at the Scout Shop in
5.
Lubrication:
Use dry powdered graphite ONLY. You may not use any other lubricant, especially
oils and silicone sprays. No graphite may be applied after car inspection.
6.
Springing: The car shall not
ride on any type springs.
7.
Details: Details such as steering
wheel, driver, decals, painting, or interior detail are permissible as long
as these details do not exceed the maximum length, width, and height specifications.
8. Attachments: The car must be
freewheeling with no starting devices.
9. Inspection: Each Car must pass
inspection by the Committee before it may compete. Inspection will take place
at registration. The Inspectors
have the right to disqualify those cars which do not meet specifications by
race time.
Guidelines For Pinewood
The following guidelines are
to be followed when building a Pinewood Derby racer. These guidelines are
established to minimize controversy over the degree of parental involvement in
the construction of the car. Remember that, ideally, the building of a Pinewood
Derby car is a father/son endeavor. If a father is unable to assist the Scout
in building the racer, help from a mother, older brother/sister, uncle,
grandparent, or other adult is encouraged.
· Car Design - The Scout should select and produce a sketch of
the car design. Ensure that the width of the car is 1-3/4" or greater at
the points where the wheels are attached. If the width is less than 1-3/4"
at these points the car will not fit on the track.
· Shaping the Car Body - In most cases, the adult is encouraged
to rough cut the car body. This is particularly true if power tools are used.
1. If hand tools are used, let the Scout
assist in cutting the shape. Use this opportunity to instruct the Scout on the
proper use, care, and storage of the tools that you are using.
2. If power tools are used, ensure that
all safety devices associated with the tools are employed. Use this opportunity
to instruct the Scout on the safe operation of power tools. Make sure that
safety glass/goggles are worn by anyone around a power tool in operation.
· Check the grooves to ensure that each is at a perfect 90-degree
angle to the car body. A car with untrue axles tends to steer to one side or
the other, causing it to rub up against the side of the lane strip, slowing it
down.
· Finishing the Car Body - ALL sanding, painting, decal
application, or other detailing of the car body shall be done by the
Scout. Once the shape of the car body is
established it is the Scout's sole responsibility to finish the car. Guidance
by the adult is encouraged, but actual performance of the work falls to the
Scout. Once again, use this opportunity to instruct the Scout on sanding
technique, painting decals, etc., but don't forget to let the Scout do the
work!!!
· Wheels and Axles - Adults should take the lead in preparing the
wheels and axles. All of the steps that follow are critical if the car is to be
a fast racer!
1. As noted in the
instructions that come with the racer, remove the wheel seams using a drill
(electric or hand), a six penny finishing
nail, and a piece of fine sandpaper glued to a flat block. Let the Scout
assist by having him hold the sandpaper (all ages) or the drill (recommended
for Webelos only).
2. Insert the axles
(without the wheels) into the car body to within 1/4” of the head of the axle.
Make sure that the axles are inserted perpendicular to the car body. Gently
remove the axles with a pair of pliers by slowly twisting and pulling on each
axle.
3. Prelubricate (a) the inside of each wheel and (b) the part
of the axle near the head where the wheel will rotate with dry powdered
graphite. Do not use regular oil or silicone spray. These lubricants can soften
the plastic wheels.
4. Slide the wheels
over the axles and gently tap the axles into the car body. A gap of 1/32"
(How do you measure that?!!) is recommended between the wheel and the car body.
In short, a slight gap should exist between the wheels and the body. Each wheel
should turn freely.